How to Plant and Grow Oriental Poppy

Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale) are distinguished by their papery petals and clear, bright colors. There are over 70 species of annual, biennial, and herbaceous plants in the genus Papaver (and some estimate as many as double that), but oriental poppies are some of the most recognizable. Hardy in Zones 2-8, oriental poppies (not to be confused with opium poppies or annual California poppies) are grown as an ornamental garden flower, blooming in the cooler months of April to June. Sometimes they’ll bloom longer where evenings remain cool during summer months. Their short flowering time of two weeks makes them a brief but colorful addition to a garden. They’re deer resistant, so won’t get eaten when they flower.

All parts of the oriental poppy (including the juice) are considered mildly toxic to humans and some animals1. That said, other plants in the Papaveraceae family (like Papaver somniferum2) are considered highly toxic, so it is best to treat all poppies as potentially harmful.

Where to Plant Oriental Poppy

Oriental poppies love cool climates and fare best in full or partial sun and well-drained soil. Despite being sun-loving plants, they do not fare well in hot, humid weather and generally struggle to thrive beyond Zone 7.

In Zones 2-7, they make a low-maintenance addition to cottage gardens, pollinator gardens, or any space where you want to add height, visual interest, or a splash of color.

All poppies have a long taproot that makes them tricky to transplant. Place your plants thoughtfully and once your oriental poppies are established, don’t transplant them unless absolutely necessary. Instead, let the plants self-seed and thin them out as needed to give them ample space and air circulation. If you must transplant, try to do so only in the fall.

How and When to Plant Oriental Poppy

You can plant nursery-grown oriental poppy plants in early spring or summer. Shallow planting is a common reason why newly planted oriental poppies fail, so dig a hole deep enough (likely 10-12 inches) to accommodate the plant’s long, carrot-like taproot. If you are planting multiple plants, space them approximately 12 to 24 inches apart.

If you would like to grow oriental poppies from seed, plan to sow them in early spring or in the fall. Loosen up the soil where you want your poppies to grow and scatter the seeds. Sprinkle a very
light layer of soil on top, but do not cover the seeds. They will need sunlight to germinate (which should take about 2 to 3 weeks). Water the area regularly and keep it evenly moist, but not wet. When your seedlings are about 1 inch tall, thin them to approximately 6 to 12 inches apart.

Oriental Poppy Care

Poppy needs lots of sun, not too much water, and vigilant removal of seeds and seedling to prevent aggressive growth.

Light

Oriental poppies grow best in bright, full sun that’s not too hot.

Soil and Water

Oriental poppies love well-drained, sandy soil with a neutral pH (6.5 to 7.0). They don’t like clay or soggy soil. Oriental poppies are drought tolerant and may only need about 1 inch of water per week (or less). Supplemental watering is only needed if there’s an extended period of drought. Poppies planted in containers may need a bit of additional water but should be allowed to dry out between waterings.

Temperature and Humidity

Oriental poppies do best in cool temperatures and low humidity. Temperatures over 65ºF can inhibit their growth, which is why early spring planting is recommended. They’re not tolerant of the high summer heat, so be aware that the foliage on your oriental poppy plants may wither (or disappear entirely) during the year’s hottest months. Do not be tempted to overwater your oriental poppies to combat this problem as you may end up killing the plant via root rot instead.

Fertilizer

Oriental poppies don’t need fertilizer unless there’s too much nitrogen in the soil. If this is the case, feed your plants once a year (in late winter or early spring) with a phosphorous-rich fertilizer, by following the product manufacturer’s instructions.

Pruning

If your oriental poppy plants are too crowded, they’ll become weedy. Remove seeds and seedlings regularly so established plants have the room they need to grow. Cut plants back to the ground after they flower. This will encourage healthy foliage and may allow for a second flowering later in the season if the weather is right.

Potting and Repotting Oriental Poppy

Oriental poppies have long taproots that need room to grow. The most important factor in successfully growing them in containers is selecting a large enough and deep enough pot. That said, it can make an excellent thriller for the center of a large container garden. Use high-quality potting soil, and place pots in a sunny location. Oriental poppies don’t like to be moved once they’re planted, so give them plenty of space, and plan to keep them where they are. If you do need to transplant your oriental poppy, try to do so in the fall and make sure you keep the taproot as intact as possible.

Pests and Problems

Oriental poppies are largely resistant to pests but may develop botrytis blight, powdery mildew, gray mold, or root rot if they’re waterlogged. Try to wash the mildew from the leaves or treat your plants with an antifungal if needed.

In shadier locations, aphids and thrips can suck the sap from oriental poppies and damage them.

How to Propagate Oriental Poppy

The easiest way to propagate oriental poppies is to sow the seeds directly in early spring or fall. You can harvest the seeds of your oriental poppy blooms in mid to late summer. Snip the stems of your poppies a couple of inches below the seed capsule and shake the seeds into a paper bag (they will be tiny). Store the bag in a cool, dry place until you are ready to plant them in early spring.

It is possible to propagate oriental poppies via root cuttings, but you will need to handle the roots cautiously to avoid upsetting the parent plant. Dig a wide circle around the plant and gently lift the roots, shaking off the excess soil. Cut a healthy, firm root from the plant’s base (no more than 1/3 of the plant’s roots) and return the parent plant to its original location. Sprinkle the root with a rooting hormone that contains fungicide and press it into a small pot filled with a sterile rooting medium until the tip of the cutting is flush with the top of the rooting medium. Place the pot in a cool place for the winter that gets some light (like a cold frame, greenhouse, or unheated garage). Water the cutting as needed to keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. Your new sprouts should emerge in approximately 8 weeks and can be transplanted outdoors in the spring.

Types of Oriental Poppy

‘Helen Elizabeth’ Oriental Poppy

Papaver orientale ‘Helen Elizabeth’ has bristly stems and lobed, toothed foliage. A central boss of black stamens accents the bright salmon-color flowers. It may reach 2-1/2 feet tall. Zones 3-9

‘Coral Reef’ Oriental Poppy

This cultivar of Papaver orientale bears big coral-pink flowers on rugged plants that grow 3 feet tall. Zones 3-9

‘Allegro’ Oriental Poppy

Papaver orientale ‘Allegro’ is a dwarf form that stays only 20 inches tall and bears strong stems with bright red-orange flowers. Zones 3-9

‘Prince of Orange’ Oriental Poppy

Papaver orientale ‘Prince of Orange’ has full orange-scarlet flowers on 30-inch-tall stems. It doesn’t have the big black blotches at the base of the flower that most Oriental poppies do, but it’s centered with black stamens and seedpod. Zones 3-9

‘Patty’s Purple Plum’ Oriental Poppy

This Papaver orientale variety bears unique burgundy-purple blooms on strong 3-foot stems. Zones 3-7

Oriental Poppy Companion Plants

Switchgrass

After a shower, switchgrass seed heads are spangled with raindrops that glisten in the sun. These mostly upright grasses are beautiful in the slanting sun in dry weather, highlighting their green, purplish, or bluish leaves. In late summer, lightly branched panicles of spikelets (flowers) appear above the foliage, presenting an airy picture. In fall, the foliage often takes on dramatic red, yellow, or gold tones; then, it turns buff in winter. Zones 4-9

Shasta Daisy

Shasta daisy is easy, always fresh, and eye-catching. All cultivars produce white daisy flowers in various degrees of doubleness and size. The sturdy stems and long vase life make the flowers unbeatable for cutting. Zones 5-8

Veronica

Easy and undemanding, veronicas look great in sunny gardens over many months. Some have mats with loose clusters of saucer-shaped flowers, while others group their star or tubular flowers into erect tight spikes. A few veronicas bring elusive blue to the garden, but more often, the flowers are purplish or violet blue, rosy pink, or white. Zones 3-11

Salvia

There are hundreds of salvias, commonly called sage, but all tend to have tall flower spikes and attractive, often gray-green leaves. Countless sages (including the herb used in cooking) are available to decorate ornamental gardens. They have a very long blooming season, right up until frost. Not all are hardy in cold climates, but they’re easy to grow as annuals. Sages carry dense or loose spires of tubular flowers in bright blues, violets, yellow, pinks, and red that mix well with other perennials in beds and borders.